Garum was a fermented fish-based condiment used in ancient Rome. It was used primarily as a flavoring to add a salty, umami-like taste to food. As the Roman Empire spread, so did this strange concoction and its producer-base stretching into North Africa, Spain, and other parts of the Mediterranean. Though it’s been referred to as a sauce, it’s actually more like a savory paste. Garum is a salted and fermented fish intestine that’s then steeped in brine and sometimes flavored with herbs, beans, and other ingredients.
The origins of garum extend back to Carthaginian sailors who discovered it during their voyages across the Mediterranean thousands of years ago. They had come up with a way to preserve the catch of the day in salt and ferment it, rather than spoilage. They especially liked the aromatic smelling oil that had formed once the mix had sufficiently broken down. This boneless liquid fish sauce had been given the name garum and was highly prized in ancient Rome for its salty, fishy taste and its ability to enhance other flavors.
Though there has been much written about garum, its exact creation process remains somewhat of a mystery. Ancient Roman recipes have not been left intact and what little remains is mostly fragmentary. We can assume, however, that the original process was a combination of salting and fermenting of fish guts and other ingredients, most likely in seawater, over several days until it had thickened and thickned, then ultimately being left to stand and clear.
Garum was exquisite but expensive, so it was a status symbol among the upper classes. By the late Roman Empire, however, the production of garum had become more widespread. Garum was widely available in shops and was found in most kitchens. They added it to other food items such as breads, vegetable dishes, and fish. It was also widely used in medicines as it was thought to have an invigorating effect. People even thought it had pickling properties, so it was mixed with water and then used to cure various types of food.
Nowadays, it may seem like an odd choice for flavoring food. However, some historians suggest that garum was the secret ingredient for Roman dishes that made them so beloved. It is likely that this condiment had the same kind of impact in Roman cuisine as many of the complex seasoning mixtures that have become popular today.
Though garum has long since fallen out of favor, its legacy remains. Several fish sauce products are still being made throughout the Mediterranean and parts of Asia, and they serve as a reminder of the original garum. In some areas, such as Morocco, it is still known as a “Moroccan Fish Sauce”, and is considered an essential flavoring in that cuisine.
The Production Process
The process of creating Garum is a rather complicated affair. It requires certain ingredients, certainly, yet it is more a matter of technique. To begin, fish entrails were placed into a tub or pot — usually a clay one. Next, salt and wine were combined, heated and added to the pot. This was allowed to sit for several days, during which the mixture fermented.
Once the mixture had sufficiently fermented, the thin liquid garum was strained through a cloth and collected. The resulting flavor was savory and tangy, yet slightly bitter. Depending on the recipe, herbs, spices, and other ingredients were added in order to enhance the flavor. This garum was then bottled or packed into clay or wooden jars for storage and sale.
The Romans used garum quite frequently, in much the same way as we use salt or pepper today. It was added to foods at the table to enhance the flavors and make dishes more savory. Some sources also suggest that garum was used as a marinade, while others claim it was also used as a base for sauces.
Health Effects of Garum
Though the flavor of garum may be appealing, the effects on ones health can be quite the opposite. Garum was created by fermenting fish entrails in salt and wine. This process can produce harmful bacteria, including listeria and other species, which can be toxic or even deadly if ingested.
Some historians claim that the upper classes in Rome never ingested garum, as it was too dangerous. However, it was so full of flavor and so cheap that the lower classes, in an effort to add flavor to lesser cuts of meat, were more likely to risk their digestive health by eating it. This may also explain why many Romans had fragile digestive systems, due to their food choices.
Modern Garum
Most commercial fish sauces on the market today are pale imitations of the original, as it is produced in much smaller quantities and with much less attention paid to its fermentation and aging processes. This can greatly alter the flavor and the health risks associated with it.
Though not technically Garum, there are some fish sauces still being made according to traditional methods. These sauces, much like the Romans’ garum, are usually higher in quality and lower in risk than their modern counterparts. Popular brands include Nam Prik and Thai Fish Sauce, which are both produced by fermenting and salting fish, and are typically aged for at least a year before bottling.
Uses Today
Garum is still being used in certain parts of the world. For example, the Algerian variety, known as kabkabou, is one of the most popular fish sauces in Algerian cuisine. It is made by salting, fermenting and aging fish, most often sardines, in brine for several days to a few weeks. This gives it a sour and salty flavor, which is quite distinct from some of the more modern fish sauces.
Similar flavors have made their way into other cuisines as well. In Thailand, the traditional nam pla sauce is similar to Garum, but is made entirely from fish and mixed with other herbs and spices. It is commonly used in combination with other ingredients to make curries and noodle dishes.
The traditional condiment, garum, may have been forgotten for centuries, but it still has some value as a source of flavoring. Though garum can be dangerous if made incorrectly, its flavor and health benefits can be enjoyed with modern recipes and fish sauces.
Cuisines Around the World
Much like the popular Italian condiment, Garum is an essential part of many cuisines around the world. For example, in Japanese cuisine, a popular fish sauce called “tsukudani” is a mixture of boiled fish, soy sauce and sugar. This mixture is then thickened and then mixed with various seasonings. This gives it a sweet and salty flavor, similar to garum.
In Chinese cuisine, a popular dish called “ma-yu” is composed of soy sauce, white sugar and a fermenting liquid made from fish entrails. This fermenting liquid comes closest to the original garum and is used to flavor stir-fried dishes.
These fish sauces and condiments are closely related to the original garum and its flavors. They are popular in countries all around the world and are used to enhance the flavors of dishes such as noodles, vegetables and meats.
Garum Revival
Though it has been lost to the pages of history, a recent revival of garum has occurred thanks to innovative chefs and food historians. These chefs have taken their inspiration from historical texts and have rediscovered the subtle and complex taste of this ancient condiment. Modern versions of garum use only the highest quality ingredients and undergo careful fermentation and aging.
These modern versions are lower in fat and higher in umami than the original and are rapidly gaining popularity in the culinary world. They are used much like the original condiment, only now with modern touches like herbs and spices, as well as alternative fermentation techniques such as the use of cultured yeast.
These new versions of Garum are quickly finding their way onto restaurant menus and into home kitchens, providing alternative ways of flavoring and preparing food. They are becoming an essential part of modern cuisine, just like they were in ancient Rome.
Authenticity of Garum
Finding the authenticity of the original garum is perhaps the biggest challenge, as the sources and recipes have all but disappeared in time. The evidence that remains is mostly fragmentary, as a result. Fortunately, recent archaeological finds in Carthage have produced evidence of ancient garum-making tools and processes, which can shed light on the production process.
In recent years, scholars have been looking at the archaeological evidence and have been attempting to piece together an understanding of the production process for garum. For example, some evidence suggests that the Romans used mule urine as a fermentation starter and added herbs, spices, and olive oil to the mix, in order to improve the flavor.
The evidence of how the Romans exactly made this ancient condiment may forever remain a mystery, but at least we can attempt to imitate their methods. Our modern version may never be as good as the original, but it is still a tasty and savory condiment that deserves its place in the pantheon of food.
